This place is a gem of an off-the-beaten path surf-town. Despite the fact that the Nicoya Peninsula in the Guanacaste province in the southwestern part of the country has the most unpaved roads in Costa Rica, Nosara is one of the oldest expatriate communities in the country. The restaurants, bars and hotels are more the adequate for a two week visit. There is an ordinance that prevents any construction on the beachfronts. Consequently, the beaches appear as though there is nothing around. This gives one the feeling of being even more remote then you really are. A helpful tip in getting here is to take the 30 minute flight from the San Juan Airport, rather than the 3-4 hour drive (half of which in on unpaved roads.) Having taken the road route, trust me, I would never do that again.
The monument letting you know that you have arrived here at the little surf town.Coconut Harry’s is typical of the surf shops in the area.While none of the waves are large, there are waves for everyone who is learning to surf. Beginner, intermediate, and advanced waves abound almost every day.Curving some turns in the waves. Just an awesome area to learn to surf. These waves flow every 15 seconds, so there is not much down time spent waiting for the next one.This spot is a great beach bar. “Howler’s” named for the local monkeys found climbing in trees above. The margaritas and cold local beers were perfect in the 86+ degree weather.The view of Howler’s from the unpaved road in front. They grow sugar cane here and the molasses byproduct is applied to the streets to keep the dust down. While it’s effective at dust mitigation, it leaves the soles of your shoes quite sticky.Howler’s never changing menu. Why change it when each item on the limited menu is great. I had lunch here at least 5 times in the 12 days I spent in the area.The very inviting hotel bar and restaurant at Sendero. The chef creates some really interesting and tasty menu items.Nosara has some shopping too. This shop was unique in that it has no doors. Consequently, everything must be packed up upon the store closing each the day.Mainstreet Nosara is paved. This is the street scene. There is a good mostly organic food store, and organic bakery, a bank and a lot more.Beautiful sunset up above Nosara. I had dinner at the Tierra Magnifica Hotel. The food was as amazing as the views.
So long from Costa Rica and the little surf town of Nosara.
Bosa and Alghero are two charming towns each in its own way. These stops were a nice variation from all the beaches and out of the way places I have been. I spent a morning in Bosa and then left for Alghero. The drive between the two was only 90 minutes but, was one of the most scenic I have experienced since I have been on the island. Bosa is small and I spent only one night, this seemed like the right amount of time. Alghero is quite a bit larger and has much more to do and see.
The colorful village of Bosa beneath the old fortress.View from the fortress down to the town of Bosa with the Bosa River running through it. Quite a picturesque setting for this little town.The ubiquitous Vespa seen here on the walk up to the fortress.The drive from Bosa to Alghero was amazing, just a stunning coast highway. at almost every point along the way.Looking south back to Bosa on the coastline between Bosa and Alghero.Old-town Alghero. This is where I chose to spend a couple of nights. Once I parked in a remote parking area to the old-town, it was a 15 minute walk to the guest house I would be staying. From there everything in the old-town is very walkable.This was my choice for lodging and it was a great one, only 12 rooms. The owner/proprietor gave me a wealth of information for restaurants to avoid, as well as ones to choose. He also acted as a great concierge and would make reservations for me. Since I was only here for a brief time, I didn’t want to waste one of the few dining experiences I would have on some mediocre restaurant. Early morning bustle on a typical old-town street with cafes, restaurants, and shops.This night-time street vender with the kind smile was selling trick boxes that were impossible to open without knowing the trick. He wouldn’t show you the trick until you purchased at least one box. I bought three of them.
This area boasts europe’s tallest sand dunes, reaching over 70 meters (about 230 feet) high. This location is fairly remote and it’s crazy to find a Five-star hotel here. This eco-resort was built from a repurposed former mining warehouse. While the area has a wild and rugged coastline with untouched beauty, there are other activities besides the beach and feasting on the scenery in which to engage. Such activities include mine touring, visiting the mining ruins, horseback riding, diving, quad biking, yoga, and more.
On the way to my final destination I stopped to explore some of the old mining ruins.Remnants of a very old mining site and factory dating back to 1850. The area here was chosen for its zinc, lead, and silver deposits. I wonder what these mine workers would think if they could see what is happening now 200 years later at the site of the eco-resort (formerly the mining warehouse.)Still some distance away to the coastline, the dunes can barely be seen far in the distance. That is also the location of what once-upon-a-time was the mining warehouse, now the eco-report Le Dune Piscinas.Drone perspective of the remote eco-resort. This image captures just how remote and secluded this place is. Also, barely visible in the foreground on the beach is the old pier. Back in the day this was used for the ships that would dock and then be loaded with the mined metals.This is a close up of the old shipping pier. I was glad that this was not removed when the hotel was created. While not beautiful to look at, it provides a link to the history of this place.This image was captured from the beach looking back to the hotel.At the beach the people are quite sparse. They are mostly camping nearby since there are no homes or lodging anywhere close to this location. The nearest town is Arbus, about 30 Km away, via mostly narrow winding dirt roads.Another perspective with some very rugged mountains in the background.Very welcoming hotel lounge. One of the many hotel sculptures around the property. In the off-season the hotel hosts an artist-in-residence program. The program invites contemporary artists to create works in dialogue with the surrounding landscape, the hotel, and its mining history.Relics and some art pieces as you walk to the beach.The giant beetle, while appearing to be menacing, is entirely harmless.Some company at breakfast. These are not bees and they do not sting. They are attracted to primarily food and flowers. I opened the honey (which they especially enjoy) so they wouldn’t bother me, and it worked.Great table for two and an incredible sunset happening. What a beautiful place for dinner. The menu was awesome too. That was critical because there are no other dining options anywhere nearby.
After a two night stay here I will be headed north for a bit. For my next stop I plan to see some small towns. Not exactly sure yet where that is, but I will know before I depart. Since there are many fewer towns and villages along Sardinia’s western coast the decision should be an easy one. Probably head to Bosa and then Alghero.
Chia is located on the southern coastline of Sardinia. I decided to spend only two nights here. The beaches were fabulous, the crystaline water was warm, and the sun was hot. The hotel I booked was The Baia di Chia Resort, part of the Curio collection by Conrad. It had 77 rooms on numerous hilly acres of coast-side land. Some of the cottages offered amazing views of the coastline. Since I was staying only two nights, I booked a superior cottage with an incredible view, as seen below.
View to the beach from my cottage near the top of the cliff..This perspective of the cliffside hotel cottages was taken from the lighthouse.A portion of the path down to the water. The only downside to the amazing views and privacy offered by my accommodations was the 80-100 steps down to the beach.The water felt as good as it looks.Pictured above is the lighthouse to which I hiked earlier in the day. The path can barely be seen just along the rocky plunge to the water.The view to the north from the lighthouse. Part of the charm here in Chia is the lack of commercial development. There was only one larger hotel. That hotel seemed like way too much for this area.The view to the south from the lighthouse. More amazing beaches as far as the eye can see.I hiked around the coastline for a couple of hours and discovered this nice secluded spot that someone was enjoying.And so my final morning here begins with this glorious sunrise over the lighthouse.
And that’s it for this stop on my island tour. After breakfast I will drive north and then west to the coast. I am heading to a very secluded and unique hotel. The journey to this very secluded spot will take three to four hours along some very challenging roads. See you there at Le Dune Piscinas.
Cala di Sinzias is located near the very southeast point on Sardinia. I found a great hotel with a great location to a stunning beach. The hotel dining options left something to be desired. However, there was an awesome beach restaurant named Lido Tamatete. Serving both Italian and Mediterranean fare I took full advantage of this place and proceeded to eat lunch and dinners here. The beach and Tamatete were a short 10 minute walk through the forest from the hotel. When I wasn’t at Tamatete I spent most of my time in the water or on the beach. I’m sure there was more here to do, but I never found it. The beach scene was it for two days.
These are the typical hotel accommodations at Hotel Cala Sinzias Resort. Modest yet fully functional units. The property had a spa, gym, several private pools, and plenty of well maintained gardens.Hotel pool was both inviting and nearly empty at the same moment. I believe it’s because the beach was such an incredible draw.The walk through the woods and then some dunes near the beach. I’m beginning to resemble my stone friend here.More of the dunes on the walk to the beach. This place is both scenic and raw. Just a stunning beach in both directions. This is the view to the north. The greenish color of the water is a direct result of the golden sand and the steep angle of the sun. Here’s the beach view to the south. Notice how the water color is different from the image above. This was taken mid-day when the angle of the sun was more direct.Another pic of this beautiful water.This is an example of an “organized beach” offering chairs, drinks and some food. It’s hard not to notice the coordinated chairs and umbrellas. It looks organized.This is an example of a “disorganized beach”, offering many colored umbrellas and some congestion. Here it is hard not to notice the clashing umbrellas, towels and chairs. But who really cares anyway, we’re all at the beach.Lunchtime view of the beach from my table at Tamatete. A table in the shade with an awesome view, a bowl of hot mussels, and an ice cold Peroni beer. Sometimes the simple things in life are the best. The name of this establishment is painted in blue and white on the large rock in the foreground.Restaurant Tamatete as evening comes to the beach.
That’s it from this place. My research indicates that I will drive 2-3 hours tomorrow mostly along the southern coastline on my way to the town of Chia. Chia is located on the southwest part of Sardinia. See you there.
The Golfo di Orosei was only a 3 hour drive south from the La Maddalena district. It was also in the general direction of my plan to travel clockwise around the entire island. Since there are no paved roads and very few dirt or rocky roads to the coastline, the only viable access is from the water. Consequently, I decided to take a full-day boat excursion in order to explore this beautiful rugged coastline on the eastern side of the island. I also believe that the best views are to be experienced from the water. Our charter had 11 other guests from various parts of the world. I befriended some Brits, and a mother and daughter from Japan. It made for a very enjoyable day. The charter provided beer, wine and a hot lunch.
Some of the rugged coastline along the Golfo di Orosei.Another area and some of the granite spires dramatically surging up from the coastline.Because of today’s partly-cloudy skies, there were fewer people at the beaches where we stopped to swim.One of the few beaches along the Golfo di Orosei. This point in the foreground provided a great spot to jump-off into the water, as well as a fabulous view.Another beach, another view.These are my new friends enjoying lunch and some white wine on the boat as we motor toward another beach.Everywhere I swam there were fish. I love the expression on the fish staring straight at me. What would he say if he could talk?
Next, I plan I will be traveling to Cala di Sinzias, which is very near the most southeastern point I can drive on the island. My research indicates that it’s a place worth checking-out. Hope you can join me.
La Maddalena is an area off the northeast coast of the island of Sardinia, essentially being islands off the main island. Part of the islands are a designated national park and protected area. This was an outstanding choice for today’s ride. Just beautiful water and beaches everywhere you looked.
Water transfer out to the islands for our ride.View from above. Seen in the distance is the main island of Sardinia.Partial coastline image looking north to Corsica. If Corsica wasn’t shrouded in clouds it would be clearly visible.A tranquil little bay along the ride. It seems like the perfect spot for an overnight, as a couple of yachts have discovered.One of the plentiful beaches here. I had to keep stopping for pictures.A more popular beach.Wherever I go here I’m always reminded of where I am, Italia. Classic Vespas for hire.The awesome track back to our aquatic transfer. Today’s ride was truly different from the prior few days, and far less life-threatening as there was little if any road traffic here.
After six days of riding I say goodbye tomorrow to my fellow bikers. I have rented a car and plan to explore Sardinia for the remainder of my time on the island. Keep you posted in a few days.
I am on the island of Sardinia which is approximately 300 miles (500Km) from the western coast of the Italian mainland, in the Mediterranean. Sardinia is only second in size to Sicily as being the largest island in the Mediterranean. The first segment of my month-long trip to Sardinia is a bike trip. The Backroads Company delivered a fantastic cycling experience. This was a six day ride with generous elevation gains most of the days. The average daily ride was 35-45 miles (58-75Km). Our group of ten was led by a couple of great guys. They were excellent as leaders, as well as cohorts. The Backroads Company arranged all the logistics, as well as lodging/baggage transport, and most meals. From beginning to end this was a well organized and well executed operation. The first few days’ rides were in and around the Gennargentu Mountains. These mountains are extremely rugged with stunning formations of granite rising to elevations in excess of 6,000 feet from sea level.
Our leader Gioele (pronounced Jo-eleh) is seen here giving the group the AM briefing. Each morning we were given the bullets of that day’s ride, as well as some approximate meeting spots along the way. Because each bike was equipped with a handlebar mounted satellite GPS device, it precluded having to ride as a group. It was nearly impossible to lose that day’s ride plan and get lost. Some riders chose to ride solo and some in pairs.This image is at the beginning of our ride on iconic highway SS 125. The ascending highway can be seen as the horizontal line cutting across the mountains in the distance.Vineyards along the ride could be seen frequently. Many other fruits and vegetables were also being cultivated. Refueling with fruits and water after two hours of riding. These were three of my fellow riders who happened to be at our van’s roadside stop when I arrived. (The woman nearest the van bears a striking resemblance to the housekeeper I had in my 2013 trip to Sicily.) Not only did we need water and fruit sugar at these roadside stops, we needed plenty of sunscreen, as we barely saw a cloud for the entire time.The charming little village nestled in these mountains is San Pantaleo. Little cafes, bars, restaurants, and of course some shopping can be found here. I had time, so I decided to enjoy a beverage at a cafe.These two women were not part of the biking group, in case that wasn’t obvious.. They were enjoying an Aperol Spritz and a white wine, while also inhaling hard on their vapes. They also spoke with heavy Russian accents. It’s nice to see these Eastern Block folks enjoying some of the same vices as western folks do. See, we have that in common.From my observations of this guy, he owned the little cafe. I was observing him from one of the cafe’s outdoor tables. He seemed to be constantly pacing, while engaged on his phone, drinking espresso alternating with Aperol Spritzes, and smoking cigarettes incessantly. He’s also a Jack Nicholson fan judging by his tee-shirt.View from the summit of today’s ride.Motos from Deutschland at the summit rest stop. After spending three hours riding up to this point it’s easy to see why people from all over the EU travel here with their motorcycles to gobble-up these awesome mountain drives and vistas. Their body armor was impressive too. I’m glad no one in our group experienced an incident requiring such protection.Another pic of my German friends and their powerful machinery. The women looked tougher and stronger than their male counterparts.Ready for the 17 mile (27Km) ride downhill? Not a lot of shoulder for us here. The idea is to stay your line and hope that everyone else does the right thing too. Any altercation is most likely a horrific one. Besides a possible distracted driver, the most significant danger is a pot hole. However, this highway was in exceptional condition. Had I known at the beginning that there was not one pot hole to be encountered, I could have relaxed a bit more on my handgrips.Pictured here is the switchback portion of the decent to our lunch spot and then to the sea.Lunch at the Hotel Villa Cedrino located near the bottom of our decent.There was an awesome hotel pool here as well. Our group was able to have lunch, but no pool activities were permitted. I get it, “some people just don’t belong.” If I ever revisit this area I will consider a two night stay here. It’s an absolutely peaceful and beautiful location.Finally back to sea level and in the water. Air temp 85, water temp 78, just perfect.No photo filters were applied to this image. You think this guy will wish he had used some sunscreen? Ouch, that’s gonna hurt later. He looks like he spent some time in a microwave. And if you zoom in, there’s another small unpleasant surprise waiting.Moonrise over the mountains, and a picture perfect way to welcome the evening.
Our next ride will be north of our present location on the eastern side of Sardinia. The area we will be visiting and exploring is know as Isola Maddalena and the Parco Nazionale de La Maddalena. These areas will be as stunning as today’s but different; as mountains are replaced with beaches and ocean vistas.
This place is so National Geographic. The southern part of the Pentecost Island is best known for originating land diving. Land diving is performed from crudely built wooden towers ranging in height from 20-30 meters (66-100 feet). The men dive head first from varying heights. They have only two ripe vines (one tied to each angle). It’s reported that the g-force experienced by the divers at the lowest point in the dive (assuming of course the ground isn’t hit first) is the greatest in the non-industrialized world. Villagers believe that diving can, among other things ensure a successful annual yam harvest. On another note, the ceremonial garments worn by the male villagers is particularly interesting.
The landing site for the morning’s ritual dance performance.These little villagers are almost always eager to pose with visitors. The girl in the middle, maybe not so much. She has a very suspicious look. It might be more likely that it is directed at the photographer, rather than the woman in the photo.This little boy with the pensive expression is lost in thought, probably because of the strangely dressed visitors coming to his secluded and quiet island paradise. Some part of him probably thinks the visitors are as alien as those from a spaceship, instead of a modern expedition cruise ship.This is typical of the living space that the islanders have. Obviously, not a lot of plumbing. While the larger villages (not on this island) have electricity, this village has very little. Not too many architectural controls either.One of the main players. What stands out in this photo? And there are quite obviously two things. First, the ceremonial dance-wear adorning his north pointing “manhood.” The second is the juxtaposition of his choice of shoewear. He is so clearly proud of these high-tops he can barely stop smiling. Also worth noting is the watch. It’s the only one I saw any villager wearing. I just wonder if he has to be on time for anything. Here is the dancing ensemble gearing up for today’s performance. Again, those white high-tops look so out of place. Everyone else is shoeless.The other dancers are in full in costume mode. Pictured here is the crudely constructed wooden tower. This tower is between 80-90 feet high. The villagers to the right are the singers, almost appearing like a cheerleading squad. (These villagers did not perform anything like the “Village People” doing YMCA.) It was a cappella except for clapping. They sang and danced during all 11 of today’s dives. The villagers believe that diving enhances the divers health and strength. That is unless his head hits the ground first. Then all the good health enhancements end right there. Happy to say that there were no head-plants this day, just some extremely pulled hips, knees. and other joints. While most divers walked off still fueled by their adrenaline rush, a couple of divers had trouble walking after getting to their feet.This particularly ripped diver is amping up the crowd before he prays for a bountiful harvest and of course, more importantly, a successful dive. No way does he wish to end up with his head between his shoulders. These villagers are saying good-bye after none of the 11 divers were killed or severely injured in today’s event. I’m sure all those smiles would look like something else had the outcome been different.A selfie with our Captain on the way back to the ship.Kids playing on the beach at the end of the day. It’s so beautiful and so innocent. Soon it will be “lights out” if there were any. A simple. yet fulfilling and happy way of life. The question that I ask myself is, if the life experience is measured by happiness, who is better off? Villagers like the ones I experienced today, or city dwellers in the modern world? Parting sunset after a day filled with interesting and crazy events.
Hope you click in to the next entry. Not sure it will be as colorful and crazy as this one was. Be well until then.
The Vava’u Island has a rustic but beautiful town, with friendly people. It’s the second largest town with just under 4,000 people. The Islands are an unspoiled tropical paradise and largely unpopulated. Clear water with abundant sea life surrounds these islands. White sandy beaches and seabirds are plentiful. Most inhabitants live off the land here, consuming fruits, vegetables, and fish from the surrounding oceans.
On the way to Tonga I sailed over the Tongan Trench. It is the second deepest trench on Earth. The depth is more than 35,000 feet, or 7 miles. The submarines on board could barely explore these depths as they are limited to only 1.400 feet. Would hate to press that limit and implode, much like the ill-fated Titan submersible did in June of 2023.A welcome dance performed by the locals. Everyone was so welcoming and friendly. The locals learn their native language (Tongan) and then English as their second language. Communication was both easy and interesting.Typical dwellings on the islands. No heat necessary, but air-conditioning would be nice. Forget about that, only fans are sporadically available. What electricity is available is created by generators. The bright side of this situation is that overhead power lines are virtually non-existent.Nearby farm being cultivated. I asked whether a tractor or manual plows were used to prepare the soil and was relieved to hear it was the former. Another homestead with adjacent farm. The people grow their own food crops on the land where they live. Notice the water collection system on the right which catches all the roof’s runoff. During the months long dry season this reservoir is heavily relied upon.Another performance for the visitors. The little kid on the end of course stole the show. The head Mama. The more colorful the garb, the higher one’s status within the community. She also led the kava ritual. Kava is a drink which produces differing levels of relaxation, depending upon how much is consumed.Pictured here is a visitor getting involved in the dancing fun. This enthusiastic tourist in the dance bears a striking resemblance to my housekeeper from my trip to Sicily in 2013. It is odd how I encounter other people who closely resemble her during my various travels. Everyone seems happy, and these tourists especially so. And why not, they have been enjoying the benefits of the kava drink for over an hour.This guy is a friendly local vendor who is very proud of his wares. It is written all over his warm, yet very confident face.Today’s snorkel/kayak landing sight. Unfortunately the skies were completely overcast. Consequently, the snorkeling wasn’t great.As mentioned before, since the skies were cloudy, the colors were not nearly as pronounced as several days ago.The very rare and elusive blue starfish. Not many of these are known to exist. I was fortunate to be able to capture this image.Some of the many nearby uninhabited islands are seen as I sail away from Tonga that evening..Almost sunset.
So that’s it from Tonga. I have a few sea days before I see land again. The Pacific Ocean is the largest ocean on the planet. It covers just about as many square miles (64 million) of earth’s surface as all the other oceans combined. No wonder it takes days to get to these islands. The next stops are in Fiji. I hope you see me there.
