Syros has a lot going for it. It is the capital of the Cyclade Islands. The architecture is Venetian in style. There are plenty of art galleries, as well as music. The beaches are great, and as always, the restaurant, tavernas, and bars are as well. Some beaches are quiet and off the beaten path, while others are full service and popular. While there is a small airport with infrequent flights, the primary choice of transportation is the inter-island ferry. The ferry from mainland Greece is just under 2 hours in duration. If there was one island of the many Greece Islands which I have visited over the years where I would want to spend a significant amount of time, this one is it. I could live here for months on end.
Coastline near the main town of Ermoupoli. The ferry I arrived on from Naxos. The coastline at night has great luminescense. I could hear the music playing from the club below and the hour was past 1AM. Daytime image of the same coast. Hotel Aristides. This little charming hotel has only 8 suites for accommodation. To the left is its garden restaurant. The hotel lobby is eclectic and the owners saw to a great restoration of the building. The stairs, banisters, and columns are all Carrara marble. Town square in Ermoupoli. Many of the sidewalks as well as this square are also Carrara marble. On the positive side the marble lasts for centuries, but as slippery as ice on teflon when it rains. Interesting art galleries abound on Syos. This particular piece was created before the recent popular Barbie movie was released. Oil on canvas, 61cm x 91cm. Backgammon anyone. How do you say “can I play winner” in Greek?Typical street scene. And typical couple enjoying wine at the Box of Bush wine bistro.Great full service beach. Some days just call for it. Beers, cocktails, burgers, or sushi. I expected to spend 3 hours or so, but ended up spending the entire day. Long enough to have two meals and plenty of drinks. I did get back to the hotel before dark.Same beach, different perspective. The full service beaches in Greece are so good. There are a couple of dine-in restaurants too. That’s where this image was captured.Afternoon bliss. It’s easy to see why I spent the entire day here.A short walk from the Aristides Hotel brought me to dinner and this restaurant in the street. Great Mediterranean fare. The string band although not great, pulled me in like a magnet.And the band played on. They were having more fun than their expressions indicate. Keep buying them grappa and maybe they start to smile. I bought them two rounds just to see. This image was captured before the rounds. Very intoxicated but happy couple. No shortage of smiles here. This guy was a salty old sailor. They were at the table just next to mine. Not sure if they were a father and daughter, or if they were something else. My best guess is… not sure. Everyone is so friendly it’s hard to tell.Charming little bakery and great coffee too.I hiked up to a church and got this fabulous view of the main harbor below. This religion must have had some allure back in the day, because the walk to get here from the center of town was all uphill and lasted about two hours. I guess a follower must really have wanted whatever this place is selling.
My next stop is Lisbon, Portugal. Until then, safe travels wherever you go.
Naxos is a charming island in the Cyclade Islands to the south of the Greek mainland. It is a large island with great beaches, mountain villages, and ancient ruins. A rental car is necessary for seeing much of what this island has to offer. The people are very friendly and welcoming. It’s quite a family friendly place too. The feel of this place is “unresorty” and non-touristic. Rather it feels normal and non-exclusive. The other thing I noticed about this part of Europe is that nearly everyone smokes or vapes. It seems so European. Almost makes me want an after dinner cigarette. When I look around, it looks like a very pleasant experience.
Many of the beaches are family friendly place. Probably because parents don’t have to worry too much about their kids being swept away by the surf.Wind surfing is big on certain parts of the island. The winds are fairly consistent and predictable. The land mass far across the water is the island of Paros.Great place for lunch on the drive to one of the mountain villages. This little place was called Rotunda. Not for those folks suffering from acrophobia. 500 Year old olive trees just outside the little mountain village. Hard to fathom that these trees were nothing more than mere saplings when the famous portrait of Mona Lisa was painted by DaVinci in the 1500s.Village street on the higher interior part of the island. It appears as though everyone here is on holiday. Plenty of day-drinking, and of course smoking.
Naxos town in the distance. Although it appears to be a large town, it has only 12,000 inhabitants.
Evening scene at a popular restaurant in Naxos Town. Seventy-five percent of the restaurants’ dining space is alfresco. These guys create some magical dishes at the Del Mar Cafe. The lasagna was so light it just about floated off the plate.Another hotel I loved. Only 12 rooms and just a 4 minute walk to my new favorite restaurant noted above.Fabulous greek fair offered by a fabulous greek family. At first I was just walking by, then I was drawn into it by the allure of the aromas and the vibe. Here I am inside. This was a great traditional greek restaurant owned by the Giannoulis Family. I have found that the house wines served at most of these restaurants, while not in jeopardy of winning any awards, are very drinkable and perfect with almost all of the cuisine served. So much so that it was the rare dinner experience where we consumed less than 1.5 liters. About a 750ml bottle per person. Also important to note is that no adverse consequences were experienced the next morning. I love this country.
I chartered a catamaran in September in order to explore some of the Ionian Islands. Since I wasn’t entirely confident in my level of sailing expertise, I also enjoyed the company of a Greek captain and his lovely Turkish wife. She was acting as our hostess. She did some light cooking too. They, and the few friends who were joining me for this charter, made for a pretty magical time together. It was the perfect vessel for sailing from island to island and otherwise enjoying this scenically beautiful area. The Ionian Islands are just off the western coast of the Greek mainland. Daytime temperatures were in the mid 80s (or 30 degrees celsius). Nightime temperatures range from 72-78 degrees. The sea is a refreshing 80 degrees. We were in the water several time a day. The places we chose to visit are largely frequented by Greek tourists, rather than drawing a more international crowd. Consequently, these places are much less touristic and this results in a more intimate experience at every point.
View from the water of the Bali 4.8 Catamaran. The catamaran is very stable because of its 25 foot width. We were able to sail unassisted by its motors about half of the time we were on the water. Here we took a break to swim and paddle-board to a nearby beach. Rear view of the vessel. Besides its 6 cabins and 6 bathrooms this vessel has great common areas. The view shown here illustrates the openness of the main deck area. The entire rear wall with its sliding doors recesses up into the ceiling, thus disappearing for the entire time we spent. It allows the outside and inside to become one very large and comfortable area with seating for 12-14 people.While almost all of our dinners were enjoyed in little restaurants and tavernas in the little villages we visited, breakfasts and some lunches were enjoyed on-board. This image was taken in the morning after filling the water tanks and getting some important provisions like more tequila and ice. Otherwise the Bali was well provisioned with everything we needed.The first of many snorkeling sites. Great water temperatures and clarity allowed for some incredible snorkeling. As can be seen there is no development. This spot was as quiet and pristine as it gets. Another image of the snorkeling coastline. In the distance on the left the sandy beach can be seen.The limestone features make for an interesting contrast.Antipaxos, this was our home for the night. This image was taken as we were sailing away in the morning. Some of the nights we had to moor instead of a marina tie-up. This night we had a tie up. The Bali had a small dingy for shuttling people from the boat to the shore when marina tie-up was not possible. These little villages are fantastic. Lots of bars, restaurants, little boutiques, and some dancing.Shopping for fruits and vegetables. Another afternoon and another little harbor for the evening. This place is known as the island of Paxos.Post sunset from the boat.A different evening and another beautiful stop for the overnight.The village at dusk is shot from above after a short hike up. On this particular night we moored the Bali in the harbor below. Then a 10 minute dingy transfer to the shore. Dinner by the little harbor. Eat, drink, and be merry then walk back to our home away from home. This group looks pretty merry indeed. Oddly enough, and it may be hard to see, but the woman seated on the far-back left bears a strong resemblance to that housekeeper I had in Sicily back in 2013. What’s crazier is that she doesn’t seem to get any older. Bella luna and some great cloud formations when I returned to the catamaran after dinner in the village. Perfect moment to enjoy a small glass of mastic and savor the view.
When the time on the catamaran is done we all part company. I will be headed to spend some time in the islands to the south of the Greek mainland known as the Cyclades. Until then, keep exploring.
This was a great choice to visit. It’s on the Dalmatian Coast in the Adriatic Sea. The city was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1979 in recognition of its outstanding medieval architecture and fortified old town. The city dates back to the 7th century. In 1991 it was besieged by the Yugoslav People’s Army for 7 months and suffered significant damage from bombings and shellings (See image below).
Sunrise along the Dalmatian Coast just outside Dubrovnik.One unique bridge. Gotta love the physics at play here. Visitors entering the walled city. There was a lot filming done here for the HBO series The Game of Thrones. It’s easy to see why. Typical street inside the city. There are numerous taverns, restaurants, and shops.Love seeing stuff like this Vespa displayed in stores. This is the plaza area within the city. A curious candy lover for sure. Not just another “looky lu.” She was not leaving without sampling and buying a variety of these tasty treats.A view toward the marina and harbor. 1991. The walled city after being bombed and shelled by the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. 2022. Same perspective as the image just above, but 31 years later. The clock tower still stands. The restoration of this site is nothing short of incredible.
This is one stunningly beautiful place in the Balkans. It’s bordered by Serbia and Bosnia, and Kosovo to the east. Kotor was founded in the 5th century. The old city was built in 12th to m14th centuries. The protected walls lead up the the fortress of Saint Ivan. Kotor is on the World Heritage list.
Within the walled city people enjoy taverns, restaurants, museums, and old churches.Just another quiet street where some businesses are closed for the season.Just outside the gate you can see what was once a functioning draw-bridge. Scarf man was happy I was in his shop. The pending hike up to the old fortress. Assuming you can, this is something you must do when visiting Kotor.Steps, steps, and more steps on the way up to the top. The view from above. It had to be at least 1,800 steps to the fortress at the top. I’m glad I wasn’t part of the construction crew who built it. The mountain range behind the old fortress does not look like it’s easily crossable. Thus, no sizable attacks could be mustered from this direction.Part of the old fortress. All the materials were transported up from the city below.Descending from the fortress back down to Kotor.
Perast
Perast is a tiny village about a 30 minute ride from Kotor. It’s right on the water and a great place to grab lunch. There is some fishing here, but not a lot more to do.
Perast from the street above. Not much to look at from this perspective except the beautiful Adriatic Sea.Perast from the water. This little town is absolutely charming and so picturesque.
Monemvasia is a beautiful medieval walled city. Its ancient documented history dates back the 8th century. However, it had some settlements above it that date to a much earlier time. These are evidenced by the ruins atop the cliffs above the walled city. Monemvasia is home to only 1,300 people. Its absolutely charming and while it is almost an island, it is not, as it is connected to the mainland by a narrow 200 meter causeway.
The walled city image captured from the water. I hiked up above to the ancient ruins which are pictured below.Within the city flowers abound. Virtually all the construction is of stone and tile. And while it’s as solid as it gets, it does make hanging pictures or mounting a flat-screen bracket a real challenge.Crashing waves at seaside. There are some ladders from the rocks into the water for access. It was very hot so I took a plunge to cool off for a bit.The view from the hike up to ancient ruins above the medieval city.These ruins pre-date the walled city by possibly 800 years. You are able to see that these people really honed their masonry skills in the centuries between. These older ruins appear Flintstonesque when compared to the walled city.An Airbnb outside the walled city. This little dwelling had no windows, only a door. It’s a solid little structure. Could probably survive a direct tsunami hit. Not sure how much demand there is for a place with no windows.
Olympia
Olympia is the birthplace of the Olympics. There are several acres of excavated artifacts and ruins in the park to be explored. It is an active dig from an archaeological perspective.
The field of the original Olympic Games. The games ran for 4 centuries (800BC-400BC) until the Romans banned them because they believed the games to be pagan, and thus contrary to their religious beliefs. What a buzz-kill these Romans must have been, on so many levels.Building ruins at Olympia. Most of this site consists of the old city ruins.Here is one fully erect doric column. The ruins are like a giant puzzle, only these pieces need small cranes and forklifts to move them into place. It appears as though they have given up trying to place them in most of the park. Just put the “DO NOT CROSS” ropes around them, charge the public to view them, and call it a day.This area cleaned up nicely. Ionic columns in the park.Mosaic in the adjacent museum. While the original games were BC, this mosaic only dates back to 700AD. It is more than 3 meters high. That’s a lot of tiles.
Ionian Islands
The Ionian islands are much more lush when compared to the Cyclades. They are considerably more mountainous. The people here are as friendly and welcoming as everywhere else in Greece. It’s a great place for a 2 week sailing charter. It has beautiful beaches, fabulous waters, delicious food, awesome wine, and great sunsets. It has just about everything one requires for a magical time.
One Ionian beach with really good lunch options. Harbor in Nydri on the Island of Lefkas. It resembles the Lake District in northern Italy.Another beautiful beach albeit a bit rocky. One more parting beach image.
And that’s it from here. Not sure where I am headed next but I hope to file an entry from there, possibly Montenegro or Croatia. Thanks for viewing and checking in.
Paros is located in the Cyclades in the Aegean Sea. It’s a bit larger than Milos or Sifnos. It is home to some 14,000 residents. It’s about 150 km south of Athens and mainland Greece. The two main towns are Parika and Naoussa. They are both full of traditional taverns, great restaurants, sophisticated bars, and lots of shopping. They both enjoy a vibrant night-life. Cars are critical to mobility and rentals are prevalent.
The view coming into the harbor on the ferry from Sifnos. Naoussa is in the background. This is where I chose to stay. The hotel was The Cosme. While it just opened only a few months ago, they still have a few wrinkles to iron out, and I am confident that they will.This rocky beach has both nude and clothed bathing. All of the islands are swimsuit optional. Beach on Antiparos. It’s much more quiet on this island than on Paros. The resident population is only about 1,200 people. It’s rumored that Tom Hanks has a place here. A blowout after the beach and on the way to lunch. Although the shoulder was almost flat, a closer look reveals that the Fiat Panda still tipped and fell over on the jack. I will omit all the expletives spewing from my mouth in the moment.The woman in the shade, although a complete stranger, pulled over to see if I needed help. I responded “not unless you can lift the car.” These Greeks are really nice people. I asked her if she wanted to wait, I would buy her lunch once the car was repaired, and she agreed… And that’s how to make chicken salad out of chicken shit.Great bar and restaurant, and as the signs say, it’s open and flip flops are welcome. If you ever visit this island, make this a stop for lunch or dinner. Great seafood and it’s right on the water.Alfresco dining in Naoussa. It’s a great scene. Fabulous food, awesome wine, killer vibe, and some after dinner smoking. In this perfect climate, how can this be topped? Reservations are imperative and dining is late as one would imagine.
Sifnos is known mostly for its gastronomy. I decided to visit my old friend Marko who lives here. He was gracious enough to allow me to stay in his villa here. It’s nice to have some wealthy friends who live in nice places. I arrived here via ferry from Milos. The little harbor is known as Kamares. Although the island is home to only 2,250 residents, it boasts more than 300 churches. That’s like one church for every 7.5 people. Who needs that many churches? Highly recommend a visit if you are ever in the area. Not just amazing food here, but great beaches and nightlife.
Kamares harbor as I arrive by ferry. It’s a fairly quiet harbor as far as harbors go. There are some nice harbor- side bars and restaurants. After a 25 minute drive from the harbor I arrive. Driveway view of Marko’s villa, my home while on Sifnos. Not much to look at from this perspective. Very unassuming property from the gravel road.However, the rear of the his villa more than compensates for the ordinary view from the road. This place is killer. It has very comfortable accommodations for 16 people with 8 bedrooms and bathrooms. The little town of Ka’stro below the villa. This is where I found the mojito bar which is featured in some pictures below. In the distance are the islands of Paros and Antiparos.One of the many churches which dot the island. This one is known as the Church of the Seven Martyrs. With so many churches any new ones must make sure the prospective name isn’t already taken. Like the old Simon and Garfunkel song “Bookends.” The Papapoulos Brothers are enjoying an evening smoke while people watching. Their hats were a promotional gift at the nearby Gyros bar.Farms in the area. These crops are cultivated with little if any irrigation. Here are watermelons growing. Doesn’t look as though it will be a bumper crop this season. Above are the ancient walls which are evidence of the terrace farming that took place here centuries ago.I visited this farm during my stay. The family Narlis lives almost entirely from the land. The cooking lesson and food were Meditarranean and amazing. After searching my entire life I finally found my long lost Greek brother Georgios. He is the patriarch and chief farmer of the family Narlis Farm. Quite an impressive chef as well. It’s a simple but fulfilling lifestyle. Their perspective is local and not global. Must be nice.This place struck me. It’s a bar that sells only mojitos and beer. It was odd that almost all of the bar’s decor consisted of their empty rum bottles. They must be proud of these. Here you can see them piled on the shelves.More bottles adorn the wheelbarrow. They definately saved on decorating this place. Just spray paint everything white, pile the empty rum bottles in whatever will hold them, and done.Why discard even the boxes the rum comes in. As you can see here, they might be fashioned into decorations as well. This could possibly be the centerpiece attraction, it certainly wasn’t the mojitos this place serves. Those sucked.Don’t these cushions look comfy? And don’t miss the empties in the rocks just behind those awesome cushions. And again more white spray paint on everything.Accidentally woke up early enough to catch this.A very old local enjoying a morning smoke. Some people are built to smoke. Smoking seems to be a very popular pastime here. These folks make it look so relaxing. Almost made me want to engage in an after dinner smoke myself.Side street in Apollonia.Street flowers are found almost everywhere. It just speaks volumes about these awesome people. They understand beauty and are friendly, generous, and warm, not to mention really good looking too.Turkish style. Guess who isn’t Turkish. These two, apparently happy tourists seem to not fit in at all.I was able to snorkel in these beautiful waters which were also the perfect temperature. One more glimpse of these beautiful temperate waters. One doesn’t even need any recreational drugs to enjoy these amazing colors.
Soon I am off to Paros and Antiparos. I hope to make another entry then. Thanks for taking some time to look at these. Hope you enjoyed.
This island is part of the island group know as the Cyclades. The Cyclades are dry islands with only small vegetation. Milos is about a 4+ hour ferry from Athens. I choose to ferry, rather than fly. The ferries are usually very reliable for inter-island transportation and way more chill than planes. Weather can affect how punctual they run. However, during the month or so that I will be here traveling around the Greek Isles (September-October) it is reliably quiet. The days are sunny and the temperatures are great (70-86 F, or 21-30 C). Milos is known for its beaches. It has quiet little villages, both seaside and in its more mountainous areas. It is home to only 5,000+ people.
Map of the Cyclades. I plan to visit Sifnos, Paros, Antiparos as well as Milos. This is where I plan to stay during my time on Milos. The small hotel has only 18 rooms/suites. Highly enjoyable and a very close walk to the village for dinners.The Aphrodite of Milos, better known as Venus de Milo. This is a perfect replica which was made to replace the original which had been discovered here, and then “stolen” or “purchased” by the French by paying a nominal amount in 1820 for the priceless artifact. The original now resides in the Louvre in Paris.Oeatpo Theatre, almost adjacent to the Venus. It was constructed by the Romans in the 1st-4th century AD.View from the Venus and the stadium. The little shipping village of Klima is below at waters’ edge, and only accessible by land on a 4 wheel drive. Village of Plaka in the mountainous region. This waiter is just another example of how physically appealing these Greeks are, both the women and the men. And this guy is only average.One of the beautiful beaches along the southern coast of Milos. While sandy beaches are easier to walk on, these pebble beaches are a quicker clean-up.Another rocky beach with crystalline water. While the beckoning siren pictured here may bear some resemblance to my Sicilian housekeeper in my 2016 post, it’s not. I have no idea who she is. But her allure is quite strong.Octopus drying in the hot Greek sun. I would later have one of these tender morsels grilled for lunch.The bees like them too, as evidenced in this close upThe volcanic history of this island is juxtaposed against its limestone character.Klima, an old fishing village. I rented a boat (zodiac) to explore the coastline. The village was first established in about 1000 BC. Obviously the colorful dwellings pictured here are quite a bit more recent.Cave entry on my zodiac. I was told by a fellow spelunker that it was okay to enter, just don’t scrape the zodiac too hard against any sharp rocks.After 5 minutes I came to the cave exit. This was the only time on this trip that I did not make any wrong turns. The cave wasn’t very wide, so good thing there was no on-coming traffic. Not sure how that would even work.Rock jumping. Always a small adrenaline rush. Grab your “boys” and go. I met the group atop the cliff just before a leapt off. They invited me to party later on their sailboat, pictured below.My new friends’ boat as I zodiac toward them. Tethered to the other boats we enjoyed a couple of hours together listening to 80s music and drinking. “Sister Christian, oh, the time has come.”View from my dinner table on the dock in Pollonia.This couple is enjoying some cocktails near the water.Evening street scene in Pollonia.Last evening on Milos. View from the hotel over looking the coastline.
Soon I will head to Sifnos. Hope to file a log entry then. For now Kalo’ apo’gevma.
The North Shore of Maui is vastly different from the major tourist destinations of Wailea or Kaanapali. There are no major hotels, only a few very small ones. There are several great restaurants in the area. What the North Shore is best known for are giant waves. The largest waves in the world are often recorded as happening here, and Peahi (better known as Jaws) is it. The largest of these monsters arise only in the winter months. The genesis of these waves is the severe Pacific winter storms in the northern hemisphere. These storms which may be a few thousand miles away create giant swells. This area of Maui is also a nice part to spend time on if you are looking for a more local experience. There are some nice little towns on this side of the island, Kula, Makawao, and Pukalani to name a few. There is a lot of agriculture upcountry too. I also visited Haleakala National Park during sunrise at Maui’s highest point atop of the extinct volcano.
The Lumeria Retreat was a very low-key and chill place to stay. Plus many yoga offerings. The drive to the beaches was only about 15 minutes. There were limited amenities here, but the gardens, birds, and trees were beautiful. I think this woman is practicing as I walked by. Or maybe something else is going on. It was hard to tell.One of many rainbows over the little coastal town of Paia on the North Shore.Baldwin beach is just a few minutes from Paia. The West Maui mountains are in the background. Because of the natural breakwater in a couple of spots, even very little kids can safely enjoy the water without too much risk of being carried away. Of course, drowning is always a possibility.As a result of the prevalent winds here, kite surfing is happening almost every day. This guy is just going out. Their kites dancing in the air can be seen as far out as 1-2 miles.Usually, a few sea turtles scatter the beach where the waters are a bit more tranquil.Paia fish market on the corner is a great, yet reasonable option for lunch or dinner. Get the blackened ahi.People at Jaws viewing the impressive surf. It was hard to tell how big these swells were because there were no surfers the morning I was here.Another image of these giant crashing waves. Quite sizable.Impressive doesn’t even begin to describe this surfer. I was not the one who captured this image last year at Jaws. Judging from relative proportions, this wave appears to be a least 45-50 feet high.Another rainbow at Baldwin’s “Baby Beach.”Mama’s Fish House at night. Great fare but a bit touristy. Also, a nice lunch option since its location is a primo beachfront. The entire place is open-air, so it feels great. Steven Tyler of Aerosmith fame was here the night I dined. He still looks pretty good at 74.The crater atop of Haleakala at sunrise. The elevation here is 10,023 feet and the temperature was only 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Bring a blanket if you don’t have any winter clothing. It was difficult waking up at 4AM but, worth it once on top here. The drive from the North Shore takes about 90 minutes.View toward the Big Island. The two peaks seen are the two volcanos Mauna Kea and Kilauea. Kilauea is currently active with lava flows.View from the top of Haleakala looking down at a small portion of the North Shore. Dotting the area between my vantage point and the coast are the towns of Kula, Makawao, and Pukalani.Best upcountry restaurant, The Hali’imaile General Store. If you are spending time on this part of the island it’s pretty convenient to get to. If you are in one of the resorts on the West Coast, make sure you have a “DD” because it will take over an hour in the car and these guys make great cocktails.
So that’s going to be it from Maui this time. Until I write and publish again, stay safe and enjoy some time away somewhere.
